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Jubaea chilensis

Chilean Wine Palm

Probably the most massive and undoubtedly the most cold tolerant of all pinnate palms, this species, although unfortunately not common in cultivation, hardly needs any introduction. Native to central Chile, it is well suited to temperate and subtropical climates. It is highly drought tolerant but will also do well in cold and humid conditions. It does not need hot summers to grow well, and in winter it can take severe frost down to -16°C (3°F) unharmed. For many temperate climates it is the only large pinnate palm that is cold tolerant enough to be successful long term. Many fine centennial examples can be admired; for example, in California, in Australia, along the Mediterranean, in southern Switzerland, along the windy Atlantic coast of France, and even in Britain. It would do well in many other areas, but has been tried only infrequently. Germination and establishment are slow but easily accomplished, and young plants are sought after and of high value, as they are rarely found in the nursery trade. We can now offer seeds of excellent quality at sensationally low prices and in unlimited quantities. Hopefully this will help this fantastic palm to become much more common in years to come.

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germination comments by our visitors
For general germination instructions click here.

Also see plant cultivation comments below.

Seeds from this species ...

... are average to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
Many people claim to have difficulty with this species, there are many sources that say to remove the coating, and as many that say not to. Personally having tried both methods i have had similar results with both! Given warmth and freshness they tend to germinate quite easily. I have found they can become susceptible to fungus if the seed coat is removed as they do like the humidity, but this can be avoided with good sterilisation before hand. Never give up on them as they can sometimes take their time, however this is nothing compared to their painfully slow growth later in life! They do however make a decent sized seedling before their leaves divide. I usually expect slightly less than average germination rates for Jubaea.
Submitted on 11/09/2013 by Lee Roberts

... are easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
I cleaned seeds then soaked in warm water for 2 days, after which I dipped in copper fungicide. I placed the seeds in sealed plastic box between damp kitchen towel. I then placed in propagator at 30c during the day and 20c at night after 1 month nothing had happened so I removed the hard outer coating dipped in fungicide then returned to the propagator as before. The seeds started to sprout within a week.
Submitted on 30/03/2013 by Jungle Jas.

... are easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
In spite of stories on germination of Jubaea chilensis, I had no problems. I used all procedures including those to keep a period in refrigerator or to brake the but little-bit. But attention, small plants shall die soon if freezing.
Submitted on 04/10/2011 by Dan Niculescu

... are very difficult to germinate and need more than 1 year to sprout.
I bought ten Jubaea Chilensis seeds almost two years ago. Firstly, I put them in compost in my propagator but after three months they hadn't sprouted and I feared they would rot so I washed them and put them in a small plastic container containing damp sphagnum moss and tranferred them to my airing cupboard. But after a year, no luck and getting fed up I put the container and seeds in my greenhouse. The greenhouse is only heated to about two degrees in winter and last winter was a very severe one for the U. K. At the end of this summer I suddenly saw lots of roots showing through the plastic. I have potted up five seeds and they are growing strongly at last. Never discard seeds if they haven't rotted because they may surprise you!! I have to add that I bought some Brahea Edulis seeds at the same time as the Jubaeas. I did exactly the same thing with them as they didn't sprout as hoped and they too germinated at the end of this summer in their container in the greenhouse with no extra water for over a year. Hope my experience helps other growersBest Wishes, Keep up the good work!
Submitted on 04/11/2010 by one of our visitors

... are very easy to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
The problem is not to germinate seeds. By following the advice given (25-30 °C with moderate humidity), it is relatively easy, even if sometimes it's a bit long. The challenge is to conserve Jubaea when transplanted into a new richer substrate. We can of course, as it's often recommended (to avoid humidity at the exit point of the germ) bury the seed only half and remove the substrate around the collar. I also propose to put in the upper part of the substrate 3-4 cm of pure river sand or something similar, which is more or less dry and not the seat of fungal development. Finally, it's best to water from below, because at this moment the root needs water.
Submitted on 02/10/2010 by one of our visitors

... are difficult to germinate and need up to 1 year to sprout.
Patience is necessary, especially if seed is not fresh. Soaked seeds for one week (daily water changes), then planted 2-5 cm deep in potting mix with bottom heat. Seedlings began appearing at 8 months, still coming.
Submitted on 28/06/2009 by Eric Ulaszek

... are difficult to germinate and need up to 1 year to sprout.
I collect 8 seed off the ground in South Cal. and only 2 germinated, it is a slow grower. Grows faster in the ground than in the pot.
Submitted on 03/12/2007 by one of our visitors

... are very easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
I've got about 25 seeds from the Jubaea and put them on top (not burried) of slightly moist germinating soil in a Chinese food container. After about 3 months roots started showing up, some of them twins or triplets! No cracking of the seeds neccessary in my opinion!
Submitted on 22/06/2007 by Kai Kuné fishyboy2@hotmail.com

... are easy to germinate and need more than 1 year to sprout.
over the past 15 years I have grown several wine palms in Orange Co. So. California. I say they're easy to grow because i give them almost no care at all.From fresh seed to year old seed,i press the (little coconut)pulpless seed into the dirt 1 inch below ground,usualy around some ferns or in the ground cover plants, & forget about them for awhile.It's always a fun supprise to see that 1st leaf pop out (like an egg hatching or a birth).I then dig up the sprouts & pot them up when weather is pleasant, no rush .They transplant well at almost any size. Best results when i use this method, It takes 5 mo.(earliest) to 30 mo. (longest time was when i babied the seed with heat & quality soil)go figure. But usualy 1 year germination. Grow a wine palm & you will enjoy it for life, so will your great, great grandchildren !
Submitted on 21/11/2006 by Russ Florian TropoCal@aol.com

... are very easy to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
I collected immature fruit in the winter. Was unsure if they would germinate so I sowed outdoors six inches deep in well drained soil. The next fall all four had sprouted above the surface. I dug them up and repotted them. I was unable to save the primary root so it was cut. I then cut the single leaf in half to reduce waterloss. This proved to be a remarkably effective method to save these uprooted seedlings. Seedlings in the past whose leaf I did not cut suffered and eventually died. I don't recommend using the baggy method for the Jubaea, due to the fact that although bleach was used fungus did appear and that this species would rather not have a humid environment. Seedling growth is slow yet reliable. Great seedlings and a great palm tree!
Submitted on 30/12/2005 by Michael Iufer miufer@ucsd.edu

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
Very easy 80% germinated within 2 months in mix of sand & perlite and peat moss (1/1/1) in 45°C. ;)
Submitted on 30/07/2005 by Hamad Alfalasi Hmalfalasi@gmail.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
Soaked 5 seeds in warm water for a couple of days, left in a tupperware box with moist compost and perlite, left on windowsill to try and high day and low night temperatures. After about 2 months 2 sprouted almost simultaneously. Planted on under about 2cm of soil in well draining mixture in 2L pots, shoot came up (slowly!) after about another 2-3 weeks.
Submitted on 30/05/105 by Alex Watson defnoz@hotmail.com

...difficult to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
Soaked seeds for a couple days and placed them in moist vermiculite. I did not try to pop out the "eyes" or scarify the surfaces. Kept the seeds at constant 30C. After about 6 months four of the ten germinated within days of each other. It has now been 13 months and none of the others have germinated.
Submitted on 27/09/2005 by Jack Sayers jack_sayers@sbcglobal.net

...very easy to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
100 seeds Soaked in water for 3 days. I filled a large clear storage bin which is 5" deep with damp peat moss (not wet). I did not remove the seeds from their outer shell. Placed seeds on top of peat then barely covered the seeds with dry vermiculite. Used spray bottle filled with water and misted vermiculite till damp not wet. Placed lid on and left indoors at room temperature around 75 degrees. Misted with water only once on week 3. They seem to like it almost dry. No bottom heat used. Seeds began to germinate at 4 weeks. Getting 4- 8 each week.
Submitted on 27/04/2005 by JOHN JDC01@HOTMAIL.COM

...easy to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
1" deep with hard shell intact, pointy side up, in 4" pots filled with cactus potting mix, one per pot; moistened to slightly damp, light spray of fungicide, sealed whole thing in plastic grocery bag, placed in dark closet, checked once a month and remoistened if necessary. 4 out of 6 have germinated as of 8 months, first one came up in 4 months.
Submitted on 26/10/2005 by hf heinrich.foltz@sbcglobal.net

...very difficult to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
I have learned from the hard way. If you are planning on growing this beautiful palm from seed, please, don't remove the outer covering. It rots the seeds more easily, and when you try to clean up the rotten seeds, they give off an unpleasant smell, and makes the soil sticky with a white milky substance. I brought 16 seeds and removed the outer covering, with 0% germination. When I brought 16 more with the seed coats still attached, not only did I get 95% germination, but the seeds germinated within 1 month. Leave the seed coat on if you want better germination.
Submitted on 25/05/2005 by Willie palmexpert05@yahoo.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
Soaked seeds for 3 days changing water each day. Placed seeds in ziploc plastic bag with some damp peat moss and kept at average 80° F. with a range of 70-90°F. After 60 days 35% of seed has germinated WITHOUT REMOVING SEED COVERING. Even though the emerging hypocotyl is not the sturdiest I've ever seen it has absolutely no problem popping through the seed coat. So I would have to say that removal of seedcoat manually is both unwise and unnecessary. My advice is leave the seedcoat alone and let mother nature take its course.
Submitted on 08/04/2005 by Al Freeburne FreeburnesHoney@cs.com

...very easy to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
Very easy to sprout. I cracked opened half of the shell leaving one half of the shell on. I put in sand and peat and moistened as needed. I let the seeds sit in a plastic bag for 3 days and 2 of my 7 seeds sprouted. Almost as easy as growing Washingtonia Filifera.
Submitted on 23/03/2005 by one of our visitors

...very easy to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
I ordered some seeds online. Immediately I removed the hard outer shell. During this process I ruined 2 of my 8 seeds by cracking the soft inner seed. I placed the good seeds in a ziploc bag with a fist full of peat only and moistened it with Captan fungicide mixed with water. Then I placed them in a cabinet above the refrigerator (around 80F). This is the good part.... 1 seed has a 1/8 inch root in only 5 days!!! The others look like they will germinate very soon! I am very excited because this is my first time to grow anything - what a wonderful way to start. I plan to grow a few hundred of these awesome palms, because they are endangered, and sell them in the future. My very first 5 day seedling will stay with me - of coarse. Good luck to all !!!
Submitted on 30/06/2004 by one of our visitors

...very difficult to germinate.
No luck, all 8 seeds rotted. I tried the 'crack them and sow them' method with no luck. The exposed seeds are very succeptible to rotting. I sowed them in a heated greenhouse tray in cocopeat and moistened them with fungicide as needed. Next time will try leaving the seeds alone in the shell and waiting.
Submitted on 16/06/2004 by Cheri Wilson reininrabt@aol.com

...easy to germinate and need more than 1 year to sprout.
I soaked the seeds in luke warm water for ten days (changing daily), then I cracked the seeds shell, by sawing the seeds between they're "eyes" with a handsaw and on the top of the seeds very loosely ( 1,5mm is enough) then I crushed the seeds shell with a hammer and the seeds were free, unharmed. After this adventure, I sowed the seeds in plastic bags, covered in peat moss. First seed sprouted after three months and is growing fast.
Submitted on 07/05/2004 by Jón Ágúst Erlingsson johnny13@torg.is

...very difficult to germinate.
Soaked for 3 days, changing water daily then carefully cracked each one open. Placed in a germination station that maintains a temp of about 75-80 degrees in cocopeat topped with perlite. Moistened with fungacide when moisture was needed. One by one they rotted, ended up buying a seedlings.
Submitted on 27/03/2004 by Cheri Wilson CAWilson05@aol.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
fairly easy growers. 30% germination within 3 months. out of 3 seeds, 2 grew 11 weeks after planting. another one that would have made 4 was lost when cracking the shell off. i soaked them in bleach for 20 min. then soaked in tap water for 2 days then planted in 40% sand, 60% peat. first shoots were 3 inches within 6 days.
Submitted on 21/03/2004 by anton chuidian wutang8364@yahoo.com

...very easy to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
nothing special done. soaked seeds in water a couple of days. placed them in a large bag with a zipper seal. actually the bag the vermiculite was in was used. partially covered with damp vermiculite. left them at room temperature about 72F. sprouts began within a month. even left some out in the garage where it got below freezing outside & still sprouts began at about 1 month. seeds are still germinating. beware-squirrels love these seeds!
Submitted on 27/01/2004 by one of our visitors

...very easy to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
I decided to give the, much talked about method of removing the endocarp a try. I have had limited success with this method before with Butia, where the seed was very old and I found that the only seeds to germinate were the ones removed from the shell. These are only the preliminary results from my Jubaea experiment and I shall post my complete results after Ive germinated all that I can. The seed that I have is fresh. I first soaked the 100+ seed for 3 days. I then gave them 4 weeks cold stratification in a refrigerator. I removed the endocarps from 30 of the seeds, I placed the remainder of the whole seeds in a ziplock plastic bag with a handful of Vermiculite, moistened slightly by spraying with water and fungicide, and placed the bag on a hotbed, covered with an upturned seed tray at 35C.Of the 30 removed endocarps; 8 were rotten and 10 were damaged by the clamping in a vice removal method, these were discarded. The remaining 12 were placed in a plastic bag with a handful of damp moss, and again placed on the hotbed alongside the others.The temperature of the hotbed is thermostatically controlled, and as this is December January I turn the temperature up to 40C on especially cold nights. It seems that the temperature fluctuation helps germinate Jubaea. The first seed to germinate was one that was NOT removed from the shell, followed 3 days later by one of the removed ones. That was after being on the hotbed for 11 days. Since then I have had 10 more of the whole (un-removed) seeds germinate, and no more of the removed ones.As I mentioned, I shall post the complete results when I have them, but an early conclusion would be that Jubaea will germinate fast if stratified and incubated with hot fluctuating temperatures. And I see no need to risk removing the endocarp unless you have really old seed that you've had trouble germinating.
Submitted on 11/01/2004 by Phil Markey phil@trebrown.com

...difficult to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
Placed 6 each in seperate bags with moist potting soil. One of which I carefully cracked entire shell off of became overcome with fungus so remember to use fungicide. Only one has germinated so far (took about 4 1/2 months) but is doing very well. The others have been in bags for 2 months now and no sign of germination.
Submitted on 21/11/2003 by Steve hangluus@juno.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
I removed the seed coat and planted them only partially in order to control any fungi. All were placed in a glass cabinet and kept nice and humid at about 85 F. I removed them from the cabinet when I saw the spear develop. I am impressed with how well the seeds resisted fungi even without their seed coat. I did use a little Captan. If I had not damaged the seeds during the extraction I think they would have done even better.
Submitted on 22/01/2003 by Thomas Taylor thomasordonna@aol.com

...very easy to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
At first I tried the way I was told-plant the seed in sandy soil and wait and wait and wait and wait. I was far too impatient for that. Then I read if you crack the shell you can get the seed to germinate more quickly. Within one week (yes, one week!) the seeds had sprouted. If you crack the nut underneath the shell mold will get inside and kill the seed so, as painful as it is to do, just dispose of those seeds. (You'll save yourself a lot of heartache later) I planted the seeds in barely damp peat in plastic bags. I kept the temp around 70 to 80 degrees.
Submitted on 20/02/2003 by robert smith rmsmith65nc@aol.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 1 month to sprout.
I am not sure how to define easy or difficult to germinate because it is the seed that does all of the germinating, but for me, it was the first seed that actually germinated for me so I say it was easy. What I did was put the seed in complete darkness on a heat mat of about 80 degrees. I placed it in a plastic bag with sandy moist soil, after removing the shell with a vice, then I took the seedand pushed it 1/8 into the soil. Then I waited 3 weeks and I found that my seed had germinated. The seed I had was not even a fresh one. About 6 months old or more.
Submitted on 05/04/2003 by kyle wicomb kewondom@yahoo.com

...difficult to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
typically, this palm is difficult and tim-consuming to germinate. however, i do have a very helpful time-saving tip for germinating these notoriously slow-to-germinate seeds.this may seem a bit simple, but by cracking open the shells one can drastically cut the germination time to a matter of a few weeks to 2 months.this SOUNDS easy, but you will lose many seeds attempting this method because cracking them open without damaging the endosperm is exceeding particular and is different for each seed...i use a C-clamp to crack them slowly. though it is possible to simply shatter the outer shell with a light, sudden blow- such as that of a hammer or small rock.discard any badly damaged seeds (keep lightly damaged ones, but be meticulous in treating these with a fungicide). after treating the seeds with a fungicide, place them in a mixture of 4 pts. sand to 1 pt. peat.i then put the seeds in 3" peat pots, just below the sand's surface, and put a plastic cup upside down over the top to keep the humidity high. i tend to water them every day, or when the sand looks dry on top. bottom heat speeds germination, 75 degrees has given me the most success.hope this is helpful.
Submitted on 02/03/2003 by Tim Lane abyssquick@aol.com

...very difficult to germinate and need more than 1 year to sprout.
Very difficult to germinate - 10 in a jiffy bag on top of my computer monitor - great source of heat -for one year and one has germinated. Now growing very rapidly
Submitted on 22/05/2002 by one of our visitors

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
After reading the other fellows stories of carefully cracking and other germination tricks I am really embarrassed because I just stuck the nuts in a planter and waited.That's it; I had three little palms. One inexplicably died in its second year. The others are still going strong.
Submitted on 30/05/2002 by one of our visitors

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
Germination in 3 weeks(first seed) and the rest(when fresh) within 3 months(90%). Some seeds rotted because I think they were not very fresh enough or have had bad embryo's. How did I managed this result?I cracked the seeds very careful with a bench-vice and removed the whole endocarp. I did not presoak them at all. After then I put the bald seeds in a zip-bag with a mixture of moist 75% cocos-peat and 25% coarse sand. Then I put the bags in a console(where I excersise my job) with several computer-screens and an almost constant temperature of 29-30 degrees Celsius. After three weeks my first Jubaea-baby was born. When having sprouts of +/- 2 inches I put them in a deep pots(25cm) with a mixture of 50% cocos-peat, 20% coarse sand and 30% clay-soil and put them at room-temperature behind the windows in full sun. Watering well, once or twice a week. You can put them outside(when very young) when temperature is more then 15 degrees Celsius. At the moment my results are fairly good.
Submitted by Herb Rikers (Netherlands) herb.rikers@wxs.nl

...very difficult to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
To put in humid sand to 4C three months. Then to sow
Submitted by santi santigtu@hotmail.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
Of 10pcs, 3 pieces were damaged during scarification, 4 pieces suffered overwatering and the remaining 3 pieces, already showing first signs of leafing where eaten by mice! These rodents love these seeds!
Submitted by Henk hsloesen@hetnet.nl

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
This plant does not deserve its reputation for difficult germination. Seeds must be FRESH for success. Results of almost 100% can be obtained. The fresh seeds are soaked in water for a couple of days after some gentle scarification with a steel file - well away from the three pores.Place in a sterile medium -vermiculite is better than perlite and place where the temperature will not go over 27C (81F) Expect first to germinate within three weeks and the rest to follow within two to three months.They need a deep container as the taproot is up to 15cm long.
Submitted by Adam St.Clair stclair2@bigpond.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
I have tried 3 methods of germination. The baggie method (peat moss only) with 85 degree temp resulted in faster germination, higher germination and faster growth than bed germination (peat moss in one bed, peat-perlite in the other) at the same temp. I will use the baggie method on this species from now on.
Submitted by Lowell ptsal@usa.net

...very easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
Over 90% germination rate. Germinated in seed traywith damp vemiculite using heating mat set at 85 deg. F.
Submitted by Dave Tahamont tahamod@apci.com

...easy to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
I have germinated Jubaea seeds with good success in first soaking them in warm water (40°C/110°F) for about 6 hours, then place them on moist peat moss/perlite (1:1) at constant 25°C/80°F in a plastic box with lid. I open the lid 1-2 times a week to let fresh air in.After about 1 month the first (10%) seeds start to germinate, after about 2-3 months there is masive germination (50-60%) of seeds, after 5-6 month about 80-85 % of seeds have germinated in this way.I am waiting till the prime root is about 100mm/4inches long and then I transplant into high pots (125mm/5inches) in peat/sand/perlite (2:1:1) - this is the time when the first leaf starts to appear.remarks:1. seeds have to be fresh - I got my seeds two times from rarepalmseeds and got 80-85% germination after 6months2. germination medium only has to be moist, not wet - like moist soil - but be aware of drying out.3. constant temperature is important and should not be too high (not over 30°C/90°F)4. donÁt pot the seedlings too early - when the first leaf starts to emerge is the right time.In this way I got strong seedlings and lost only about 2-3% after potting.Start fertilizing 3 months after potting with weak solutions.
Submitted by Harald Leban hleban@telering.at

...difficult to germinate and need up to 3 months to sprout.
I had luck cracking off the shell. About 25% then germinated in bag of compost in warm airing cupboard within a month.However I rotted all but one off after potting up- water carefully!
Submitted by Andy Haynes bt7035@qmw.ac.uk

...difficult to germinate and need up to 6 months to sprout.
Store seeds harvested later autumn outside, half-buried in a well drained soil ; protect only if winter is too much cold or damp. Clean the seeds in early spring (march), disinfect with diluted chlorine for ¸ hour, rinse. Sow into individual pots or in bag in a good pine bark medium compost, with no sand and so few peat as possible. Add 1/6 volume of very finely sieved chalky soil (white earth) to you sowing mixture to help keep good drainage. Half-bury seeds (the 3 pores must be in to compost) water with diluted benlate or thiram solution to prevent fungi. Cover with glass. Provide bottom heat (25-30°C) germination can occur within a month or two and scales over 6 months.Young plants tend to decay easily in summer. To prevent dramatic seedling loss, grow in chalky very well drained mixture and water sparingly. Plant as early as possible in the very sunny part of your garden.
Submitted by one of our visitors

...easy to germinate and need more than 1 year to sprout.
Respond to warm conditions, germination can start in a month or two but a whole batch of seed may take two or more years to germinate, if at all.
Submitted by Jeff Nugent permaculture@telstra.easymail.com.au

...very difficult to germinate and need more than 1 year to sprout.
The Jubaeas are very difficult to germinate.It might last until 2 years. After germinating they grow quite easily. At least, we are successful with them, in Extremadura, Spain.
Submitted by Siegfried Hannemann mhannemann@terra.es

win € 50 worth of seeds
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plant cultivation comments by our visitors
Also see germination commnets above.

Plants from this species ...

... are of high ornamental value
In South Yorkshire in United Kingdom they need average care and grow very slow.
I have grown a number if these palms from seed, and despite their slow growth rate, i always rate this plant highly. They develop into a fairly large strap leaved seedling, having usually about 5-6 leaves after 2 years. This of course is largely dependent on where they are grown, i keep them in a greenhouse throughout their first year, heated in winter to obtain maximum growth, then in their second year leave them outside, in pots, between may and the first frosts, at this stage they may take a light frosting, but i like them to keep the integrity of their leaves as they take so long to grow out any damage! Divided leaves may appear in the 4th or 5th year, sometimes much later if in a colder area. This is a palm that once large enough to plant out, put it somewhere sheltered and forget about it, then in many years it will surprise you with its beauty. Mature specimens are truly spectacular, and huge! But this is unlikely to be something you have to worry about, more likely to be a problem for your grandchildren. It does not tolerate high heat and humidity well, much preferring a cooler climate with adequate rainfall. If a specimen is planted out, protection is recommended anywhere but the mildest and most sheltered locations. Heavy frosts can cause damage that will not be grown out in a season, even on a fairly large specimen. Once it starts trunking it is more likely to survive unprotected given it is established in its planting site, growth should also speed up slightly, but other hardy palms in your collection will almost certainly still out grow it!
Submitted on 11/09/2013 by Lee Roberts

... are of high ornamental value
In Wilmington, Illinois in USA they need much care and grow slow.
Where I live (41 degrees north, zone 5/6, northern Illinois) this palm can only be grown as a house plant. Grown in a pot, it is a slow-growing, but attractive feather palm. I put the plants outdoors as soon as possible (early April) and bring them indoors in late October/early November - I do not move them in case of early/late frosts. In containers, they do best with a deep pot and a well-drained, coarse potting mix. I acclimatize them to full sun during summer. During winter, they need a bright south exposure (a sun room or greenhouse is ideal) or bright artificial lights. Insufficient light during winter (especially if keep too warm) can be fatal.
Submitted on 28/06/2009 by Eric Ulaszek

... are of excellent ornamental value
In Ravenna in Italy they need little care and grow slow.
I have this plant in Ravenna, Italy, USDA 8, in the last 15 years I had only little problems with snow that can sign the leaves. The plant is 2 m high with a very little trunk. It should be 29 y.o. I never water it I give only some fertilizer in spring
Submitted on 02/08/2007 by one of our visitors

In Philadelphia, Pennsylvania (Zone 7a) in USA they need very little care and grow slow.
Three years ago I planted sample packets of seeds for several species of feather palms that stood a chance of being hardy in Philadelphia, PA (Zone 7a). I was pleased at 60-80% germination for all species following directions that came with the seeds and have raised a good few of them with no special care. Others I have given away to friends who are equally successful, although growth is slow. This spring (2005) I planted one each of Jubaea chilensis and Parajubaea torallyi var. microcarpa outside in the ground (clay soil remediated with compost) and in a half whiskey barrel planter (commercial planter mix) with the intention of letting them overwinter outside. The jubaeas seemed to have thrived through the hot summer, putting on several 17-20 inch leaves (still undivided), and they have survived several hard freezes (to 23 degrees F) without damage. The parajubaeas have not fared as well in either the heat or cold, but are still alive. It remains to be seen how they will fare through the depths of our winter (to single digits), so I will report back in the spring. Next winter I will try Butia eriospatha (now larger than the jubaeas and beginning to feather) and some Phoenix species.
Submitted on 27/11/2005 by Holman Massey hcmassey@gmail.com

win € 75 worth of seeds
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If you wish to read more on palm cultivation, we highly recommend Ornamental Palm Horticulture by Timothy K. Broschat and Alan W. Meerow, available in our bookshop.

Ratings and comments reflect individual experiences and the views of our visitors. They do not necessarily describe the most appropriate methods, nor are they necessarily valid for all seeds or plants of this species. Germination and plant cultivation success depends on many different factors; nevertheless, these experiences will hopefully aid you in your effort to get the best germination results from our seeds and the best growth results from your plants.

We recommend:
The Encyclopedia of Cultivated Palms

The Encyclopedia of Cultivated Palms
by Robert Lee Riffle, Paul Craft, Scott Zona

2nd edition
Completely revised and updated

Hardcover - 528 pages
11 x 8.5 inches

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The Encyclopedia of Cultivated Palms is the definitive account of all palms that can be grown for ornamental and economic use. Palms are often underutilized as a result of their unfamiliarity—even to tropical gardeners. To help introduce these valuable plants to a new audience, the authors have exhaustively documented every genus in the palm family.
825 species are described in detail, including cold hardiness, water needs, height, and any special requirements. Generously illustrated with more than 900 photos, including photos of several palm species that have never before appeared in a general encyclopedia, The Encyclopedia of Cultivated Palms is as valuable as an identification guide as it is a practical handbook. Interesting snippets of history, ethnobotany, and biology inform the text and make this a lively catalog of these remarkable plants.

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